Description
385310076 Duckbill Valve Kit — Complete Sealand Vacuum Generator Rebuild (2-Pack)
When your Sealand VacuFlush toilet loses vacuum or cycles constantly, worn duckbill valves are almost always the cause. These one-way rubber check valves degrade from waste chemicals and mineral buildup. The iFJF 385310076 Duckbill Valve Kit includes two premium nitrile valves sized for all Sealand S-Series and T-Series vacuum generators. Rebuild your pump in under 30 minutes and restore factory vacuum performance.
Key Features
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Complete 2-Pack Value: Both inlet and outlet valves needed for a proper pump rebuild. Replace both while you have the housing open.
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Premium Nitrile Rubber: Resists chemical attack from holding tank treatments — outlasts generic silicone valves by 2-3x in chemical-rich environments.
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Universal S&T Fit: Compatible with S12D, S24D, S32D, T12, T24, T32, and VHT/VG series vacuum generators.
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OEM-Dimension Match: Precise lip geometry ensures complete one-way seal — no vacuum loss between flushes.
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Includes Silicone Grease: Pre-applied lubrication prevents tearing during installation and ensures a perfect seal.
Compatibility
| Pump Series |
Models |
| S-Series |
S12D, S12DAB, S24D, S32D, S115A, S12, 52A, S32 |
| T-Series |
T12, T24, T32 |
| VHT/VG |
VHT12, VHT24, VG4, VG5 |
Specifications
| Spec |
Value |
| Part Number |
385310076 |
| Material |
Premium Nitrile Rubber |
| Valve Type |
One-Way Duckbill Check Valve |
| Quantity |
2 (Inlet + Outlet) |
| Includes |
2x Valves + Silicone Grease Packet |
Symptoms of Failed Duckbill Valves
- Pump runs continuously without building pressure
- Weak or incomplete flushes — bowl doesn't clear completely
- Pump cycles every few minutes without anyone flushing
- Foul odor from vacuum tank area
- Hissing sound near pump housing during operation
- Vacuum gauge shows pressure bleed-down
Installation Guide
- Turn off power at breaker. Locate vacuum generator pump.
- Remove pump housing cover (4-6 screws depending on model).
- Note orientation: tapered beak faces toward holding tank on both valves.
- Remove old valves carefully — they may be brittle. Clean mounting surfaces with a rag.
- Apply included silicone grease to the lip of each new valve.
- Press new valves firmly into their seats. Ensure full perimeter contact.
- Reassemble housing, tighten screws evenly. Restore power.
- Test with 3-4 flushes. Verify pump shuts off and vacuum holds for 2+ minutes.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: How do I know which valve is bad — inlet or outlet?
A: Listen near each valve while pump runs — hissing indicates a leak at that valve. Vacuum bleeding immediately after pump stops suggests inlet valve failure. Slow to build vacuum but holds once achieved points to outlet valve wear. When in doubt, replacing both is recommended.
Q: How often should duckbill valves be replaced?
A: Replace every 2-3 years under normal recreational use. Liveaboards and full-time RVers should replace annually. If you use formaldehyde-based holding tank chemicals, inspect every 6 months — chemicals accelerate rubber degradation significantly.
Q: Why buy the 2-pack instead of single valves?
A: Both valves wear at similar rates. If one has failed, the other is likely close behind. Replacing both saves you from opening the pump housing again in a few months — and costs less than two single purchases.
Q: Will these fit my older Sealand pump?
A: Yes. The 385310076 duckbill valve fits all S-Series and T-Series Sealand/Dometic vacuum generators dating back to the 1990s. The design has not changed.
Q: Can I do this repair myself?
A: Absolutely. This is a 20-30 minute DIY job requiring only a screwdriver. No plumbing or electrical expertise needed. We include step-by-step instructions in every kit.
Q: What happens if I install a valve backward?
A: The pump will run continuously but never build vacuum — the valve will be forced open instead of sealing. The tapered beak MUST face toward the holding tank. If you make this mistake, simply open the housing and flip the valve around.
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